Category: Gardening

Say Goodbye to Greenhouse Pests
Greenhouse pests are more than just a nuisance—they can seriously undermine your hard work by stunting growth, spreading disease, and even wiping out entire crops. From aphids and whiteflies to spider mites and fungus gnats, these tiny invaders thrive in warm, humid conditions and can multiply fast if left unchecked. According to the University of Massachusetts Extension, greenhouse pests are often introduced through infested plant material or soil, and without natural predators inside, their populations can quickly explode [1].

So how do you protect your plants without resorting to harsh chemicals? The good news: effective, eco-friendly strategies do exist—and they’re easier to implement than you might think.

Start with Clean Practices

Prevention is your first line of defense. Follow these foundational steps:
- Inspect new plants for signs of pests before bringing them into your greenhouse.
- Disinfect tools and trays regularly to avoid cross-contamination.
- Clean up plant debris, which provides breeding grounds for insects and fungal spores.
- Routine cleaning and careful monitoring can drastically reduce the chance of infestation.
Monitor Early and Often

Regular inspection is key to catching outbreaks early. Place yellow sticky traps near plants to detect flying insects like whiteflies and fungus gnats. Check the undersides of leaves for aphids and mites and inspect soil surfaces for larvae.

Early detection = easier management.

Introduce Beneficial Insects

Why fight pests alone when nature can help? Consider adding beneficial insects to your greenhouse ecosystem:
- Ladybugs (Hippodamia convergens): Eat aphids, mealybugs, and soft-bodied insects.
- Encarsia formosa: A parasitic wasp that targets whiteflies.
- Predatory mites (Phytoseiulus persimilis): Effective against spider mites.
Biological control is safe, sustainable, and highly effective when introduced early and in the right conditions [2].

Apply Organic Treatments as Needed

If pest levels rise beyond control, organic sprays can help:
- Neem oil: Works as a natural insect repellent and disrupts pest development.
- Insecticidal soap: Penetrates soft-bodied insects’ exoskeletons and dries them out.
- Diatomaceous earth: A fine powder that damages pests’ outer shells, causing dehydration.
Use these options sparingly and always follow label instructions for safe application.

Control Humidity and Airflow

Pests (and mold) love stagnant air and moisture. Keep your environment balanced:
- Use oscillating fans to promote airflow.
- Ventilate regularly to prevent excess humidity.
- Water plants in the morning to allow time for drying.
Controlling the environment makes it less inviting for unwanted guests.

Final Thoughts on Controlling Greenhouse Pests

Greenhouse pests may be inevitable—but infestations are not. With consistent monitoring, clean practices, and nature-friendly treatments, you can keep your greenhouse thriving year-round. A little prevention goes a long way—and your plants will thank you.

Sources:

1 UMass Extension Greenhouse Crops & Floriculture Program. Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

2 UC Agriculture and Natural Resources. Biological Control and Natural Enemies
April 30, 2025
7 Steps to Growing Perfect Peppers in Your Greenhouse
Have you ever dreamed of picking spicy and fresh homegrown peppers straight from the vine? A greenhouse gives gardeners the upper hand, allowing successful pepper growing well beyond the typical season. Even a cold frame can allow for pepper-growing fun when the temps drop. Though both environments can provide the warmth that peppers love, not all varieties play nice.

These seven tips will give you an edge to grow perfect peppers packed with flavor (say that three times)!

7 Tips for Greenhouse and Cold Frame Peppers

Choose the Right Greenhouse Variety

There are thousands of pepper varieties worldwide, and choosing the best ones to plant is key. The following list of peppers is ideal for controlled environments like a greenhouse or cold frame.
- Bell peppers
- Habaneros
- Cayenne
- Mini-bell
- Jalapenos
Create the Right Greenhouse Environment

Peppers need full sun and a consistent temperature of 70-90 degrees to blossom and fruit. In some areas, such as the south, a greenhouse can get far too hot to grow peppers in the summer. Consider planting them in pots or raised beds outside if that’s the case.

For northerners, a greenhouse or cold frame can be perfect for these sun-loving plants. No matter where you grow your peppers, try not to mix plants with other species from the nightshade family, like tomatoes, eggplant, and potatoes, because they can share the same pests and diseases. Instead, plant your peppers with companion plants like carrots, nasturtiums, basil, cilantro, and marigolds for natural pest prevention.

Provide Healthy Soil and Compost

Peppers love to eat, and soil that lacks nutrients can madden them to the point where they produce smaller fruit, yellowed leaves, and less-than-impressive growth. One or all three of these mean a reduced harvest, so make sure you hit that sweet spot for healthy soil and commit to an optimal feeding schedule.
- Ideal pH: Peppers thrive in 6.0-7.0 Ph.
- Soil Prep: Add compost and organic matter before planting peppers.
- Fertilize: A fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus can boost fruit production. However, a balanced 10-10-10 should be used at a minimum.
Water with Care

Peppers aren’t too thrilled with water. They despise soggy roots and will throw a fit with blossom end rot. It’s best to water your peppers deeply, 2-3 times weekly, rather than everyday.

If you’re growing peppers in a cold frame, water them early in the morning so the soil soaks up excess moisture before nightfall.

Drip irrigation systems are excellent for peppers and keep the soil hydrated without over-watering. Peppers planted in raised beds or pots dry out quickly, which means peppers can soon take a turn for the worse. So, make sure you check potted peppers frequently.

Stake and Support

If you’re growing your peppers in a greenhouse or cold frame, they’re happy soaking up the sun, which means they tend to get bigger and even heavier than their outdoor neighbors. You’ll need to support the plants with cages, trellises, or stakes to keep them from toppling over. You should also prune the lower leaves so light can penetrate the base of the plant.

Bonus tip: Although it may seem counter-intuitive, removing the first few flowers on your plant will help redirect energy to leaf and root growth, encouraging even bigger peppers later.

Prevent Pests in Your Greenhouse

They’re everywhere in the garden! Spider mites, whiteflies, and aphids can attack pepper plants and spread quickly. Beneficial insects like ladybugs can help solve the problem. If pests get out of hand, spray your plants with neem oil or insecticidal soap. If you’re growing peppers in a cold frame where plants are close to the earth, keeps slugs and snails away naturally with crushed eggshells or a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth.

Happy Harvesting

Ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor? Harvest your peppers once they’ve reached their ideal color and size. Be sure to use pruning shears to avoid damaging your pepper plants.

If a frost is on the way and you’re growing your peppers in a cold frame, pick them a little earlier and let them ripen indoors.

Whether jumpstarting seedlings or extending your harvest, a greenhouse or cold frame provides the perfect environment to grow peppers year-round. Spice up with your garden with a few pepper plants and see if your skills can take the heat.
April 11, 2025
A Cold Frame: The Gardener’s Secret for Spring
“Gardeners should dedicate a monument to the cold frame.” – Eliot Coleman. (The Four-Season Harvest, 1999, page 80.)

Eliot Coleman, one of the leaders in four-season gardening and an organic farming expert, went as far as to call the cold frame the magic box, and we couldn’t agree more.

Cold frames are simple and affordable outdoor structures that help gardeners protect young plants from cold weather while capturing the heat. Just like a mini greenhouse, which is exactly how a cold frame behaves but on a smaller scale, they shelter plants and can help growers start seeds earlier by capturing solar radiation and creating a warmer microclimate.

What is a Cold Frame?

A cold frame is a small bottomless box made from polycarbonate or glass that is designed to allow direct planting into the soil of a garden. You can purchase cold frames from local and online garden supply retailers or make your own if you’re crafty and up for a gardening project. Exaco has several excellent ones from Europe.

How Cold Frames Benefit Gardens in Early Spring and Late Fall

Temperatures are unpredictable in the spring, so much so that many areas experience a cold, “false spring,” where the climate feels unseasonably lovely and warm. People are excited to get outside and enjoy it. And then, snap! Mother Nature pulls the reins on all those spring gardening projects. This often leads to nipped plantings when temperatures return to their cooler norms.

But there’s a way around all that with a cold frame. Some key benefits of utilizing a cold frame in the spring include:
- Get a head start on seeds: Seeds can germinate weeks before they would outdoors.
- Protection: Delicate plants and seedlings can harden off before transplanting into prepared beds.
- Extend harvest: Greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach love cold frames and can produce in these structures long after the rest of the garden crop.
- Protection from late frosts: Those sudden drops won’t risk plants as they’ll stay insulated and safe in their cold frame.
Where to Position a Cold Frame

Just like a greenhouse, you want to ensure your cold frame is placed correctly in the garden to maximize its exposure to the sun. Usually, this means it should be south-facing and near a wall or up against a greenhouse for extra protection and warmth.

What to Grow in a Cold Frame

Cold frames and spring bounties are a match made in heaven. These veggies and flowers go hand in hand:
- Root veggies- Beets, carrots, radishes
- Herbs- Chives, cilantro, parsley
- Flowers- Violas and sweet peas
- Leafy greens- Arugula, Swiss chard, lettuce, spinach
Cold Frames Work in Fall and Winter, Too

double cold frame

Cold frames aren’t just for spring. They can extend the growing season for summer veggies like cucumbers and protect them from October’s frost. You can also overwinter fuchsia, geraniums, nasturtiums, tomatoes, or tomatillos with great success. The secret is to give plants some fresh air and open the frame so that the air can circulate, but never when the temperatures are at or near freezing.

Cold frames are an excellent addition to any garden, and if you don’t have the place for a full-size greenhouse, don’t let that stop you from extending your growing season. Look at our Australia brands that include a year-round, a double-frame, the Juwel Biostar 1500 Cold Frame which comes with automatic heat activated openers, or the Kombi Raised Bed and Cold Frame, (perfect for apartment-dwelling gardeners) and show Mother Nature you’ve got this!
March 11, 2025
Change Your Gardening Game with Planting by the Moon

You may have heard of planting by the moon, but have you tried it? Farmers and gardeners have used this age-old technique for hundreds of years, and some swear by its success.

If you want healthier plants and a more productive garden, this interesting planting method could be the winning card in your gardening game. Here’s what it entails.

What is Planting by the Moon?

As fun as it may sound, planting by the moon isn’t a magical, celestial endeavor where you grab your trowel and get to digging under the moonlight. Instead, the concept of planting by the moon is based on the idea that the moons phases can affect plant growth. How so? The moon causes tides to rise and fall with its gravitational pull. It also affects soil because it pulls more moisture to the surface. When seedlings are planted during the full moon and the new moon, they absorb more water and swell, resulting in more effective germination.

Lunar Cycles for Moon Phase Gardening

Now that you have a basic understanding of planting by the moon, you’ll need to follow two periods in the lunar cycle when planting.

Waxing– The time between the new and full moon.

Waning– The time between the full and the new moon.

What to Plant and When

The waxing and waning lunar cycles determine what you should plant. During the waxing moon, anything needing plentiful leaves and stems, such as annuals and above-ground fruits and veggies, should be planted. The moon’s light increases night by night from the new moon till it’s at it’s fullest. This helps upward stems grow healthy and strong.

For tubers, bulbs, and any plant needing extra root growth, you should plant during the waning moon. The moonlight decreases nightly from the full moon until it’s new again, and this extra darkness encourages plants to focus on growth beneath the soil. Below-ground crops such as onions potatoes and carrots benefit when planted during a waning cycle.

In addition to the moon cycle, your climate will determine when to plant tender seedlings. You can find dates for all the popular food crops in The Old Farmer’s Almanac Spring planting calendar.

Gardening is already a dance with nature, but adding a sprinkle of the moon’s influence makes it even more exciting. Have you tried planting by the moon? Keep a garden journal, track your success, and let us know if the moon’s magic works for you.

Source: Gardening by the Moon

March 7, 2025